One of the little guys appears to be holding a keyboard, while another has a tablet representing 1,000 ryou (old-style Japanese currency).
Tanuki with keyboard and 千両
Tanuki are often confused with raccoons, but are in fact a separate species, raccoon dog (Nyctereutes procyonoides viverrinus). Tanuki were formerly thought to be tricksters and shape-shifters, but are now associated with generosity, cheer and prosperity. You can read more about tanuki and their place in Japanese culture at this post by The Senseitions:The Worst Christmas Present Ever, Revealed: It’s a tanuki!.
Takaosan — Mt Takao — offers lots of hiking and a famous temple and shrine complex within easy reach of central Tokyo, making it the most-climbed peak in Japan. In fact, an estimated 2.6 million people visit each year to see the attractions, including a Monkey Park and Wild Flower Garden, and — from June through October — what is reputed to be the highest beer garden in Tokyo.
Fall is a popular time to visit the mountain, and thousands of Tokyoites flock to see the changing 紅葉 (momiji: maple) leaves. Cooler air also offers a chance to view Mt Fuji from Takaosan’s 599-meter peak.
Red maple leaves bring the crowds
Unfortunately, easy access from Tokyo and the great scenery on view add up to enormous crowds. At the height of 紅葉 (koyo: autumn leaves) season, it’s not unusual to wait up to an hour for the cable car, and to be jostled by the crowds thronging to catch a glimpse of Mt Fuji at the peak.
View of Mt Fuji from the peak of Mt Takao Tree roots adorn a hiking trail
There isn’t room on one mountain for enough cafés and restaurants to handle the crowds at their peak, but the throngs are handled via typical Japanese ingenuity. For example, to avoid large crowds waiting for the lift or cable car down from the mountain, the operators distribute numbered tickets to riders, who are only permitted to queue for the ride once their group’s number has been called. Even the shops at the foot of the mountain have experience dealing with the thousands of people who flock to the mountain each day, with workers helping the customers to queue up and maintain a semblance of civility (or at least order).
Takaosan Yakuo-in Yukiji, commonly called Yakuo-in, is a Buddhist temple and shrine complex established on the flanks of Mt Takao at the order of Emperor Shomu in 744.
Devotees visit the Main Hall
Yakuo-in was restored in the 14th Century by Shungen Daitoku, who enshrined the deity Izuna Daigongen following a vision. Izuna Daigongen protects devotees from harm, and combines attributes of five deities, as described by the temple’s official site: Fudo Myo-o, Karuraten (Garuda, a divine bird), Dakiniten (a demon that feeds on human hearts), Kangiten (a fertility deity with the head of an elephant) and Benzaiten (the deity of water, music and victory in battle).
Izuna Gongen-do
Mt Takao is associated with Tengu, long-nosed demons who act as messengers of the gods and who chastise evil. These figures are found throughout the temple complex, and flank the entrance to Izuna Gongen-do.
Tengu in front of Izuna Gongen-do
Yakuo-in is reached following a brief walk along paved paths (and some stairs) from the cable car/lift terminus on Mt Takao. Alternatively, hikers can reach the summit of Mt Takao first and then descend through the temple complex.
Hikawa Gorge is a natural formation at the confluence of the Nippara (日原川) and Tama Rivers (多摩川), easily accessible from Okutama Station on the Okutama Mukashi Michi (奥多摩むかしみち — Okutama Old Trail). The gorge lies just a few kilometers downstream of the Oguchi Dam which forms Lake Okutama, the source of the Tama River.
Hikawa River Gorge, Okutama
The gorge is a popular vacation spot throughout the summer, with picnicking along the banks, but the fall colors in late October and early November bring out the best in the scenery.
Hiking the Okutama Mukashi Michi is just a bit challenging, with some climbing and rocky paths that can turn slick in wet weather. We arrived following a late-season typhoon and found ourselves clambering over mud and rocks that had washed over the path where a tree had fallen down the slope. But the trail is well marked and for the most part well maintained, with many beautiful scenes along the way.
Access
From Shinjuku, the Chuo Line leaves about twice per hour, with a change at Oume (青梅). There is a “Holiday Express” runs direct a couple of times a day. It saves making a transfer, but takes the same time of about 1 hour 40 minutes to reach Okutama Station.
Ameya Yokocho got its start as a black market dealing in American goods following the end of the Pacific War — its name might stand for either “American Alley” or “Candy Store Alley”. It remains today a densely packed shopping district with a variety of bargain shops and al fresco restaurants.
“Ame Yoko”, as it’s known for short, lies along the Yamanote Line tracks near Ueno station and encompasses as many as 180 shops selling everything from cheap watches and electronics, bargain fashions and variety goods to a selection of fresh seafood and dried goods. In addition, there are a number of tiny restaurants offering al fresco dining or yatai street food.
Seafood restaurant in Ameyoko A stall offering fresh seafood
Barkers freely mix with the crowd, lending a festive air to the shopping district. At times, visitors must pass a gauntlet of apron-clad chefs touting shish kebab.
Ame Yoko shopkeeper touts his goods
Those who come to Ame Yoko must be prepared to face the crowds, regardless of the time of day or the weather. (OK, we admit we haven’t been during a typhoon … ) And because the area has a reputation for bargains, a large proportion of the crowd is likely to be non-Japanese as well.
I’d been biking in Japan for years, mostly up and down the Tamagawa, when I stumbled across this brilliant short loop route that takes in a lot of famous Tokyo sites. On the downside, the ride is almost entirely in traffic. Riding on a Sunday minimized this in some places, but others (e.g., Ginza) will be busy no matter when you go.
I pick up the route where it brushes the corner of Shinjuku Gyoen and continues down through Sendagaya to Gaien. Along the way it passes the construction for the new Olympic stadium.
The Meiji Memorial Picture Gallery contains masterpieces which “show the brave figures and historic scenes of the brilliant era.”
From Gaien we continue down through Midtown and Roppongi before coming to a fairly open view of Tokyo Tower in Azabu.
Tokyo Tower
From Tokyo Tower it’s a bit of a climb and then a long lateral across and through Azabu and Toronomon to Kasumigaseki, with all the government ministries.
Ministry of Justice, at Sakuradamon
The Ministry of Justice is at a corner adjacent to the Sakuradamon gate of the Imperial Palace. Rounding the corner, we come to Hibiya Park, which is an opportunity to fill up the water bottle before striking out in heavy traffic towards Ginza.
Sakuradamon, gate to the Imperial Palace Watering hole at Hibiya Park — 30 seconds before I found a modern, clean fountain
Braving the traffic, we continue southwest through Ginza and then past the Kabukiza. We had to cross to the other side to get a good photo as the theatre comes right up to the pavement.
Kabukiza (Tokyo Kabuki Theater)
Next in quick succession come the world-famous Tsukiji Fish Market (although there’s not much to see as it’s closed on Sundays) and the Sumida River.
Demons welcome you to the Tsukiji Fish Market Sumida River adjacent to Tsukiji Fish Market
It’s still a long, straight stretch to Odaiba, which we reach after a gentle but prolonged climb up Harumi Ohashi (bridge). The Rainbow bridge is visible off to the right from Harumi Ohashi, but don’t bother to stop and take photos here. By continuing right on Ariaki Avenue, on the first and only cycle path we’ll encounter along the route, we’ll come to a much better view.
Rainbow Bridge, connecting Tokyo with Odaiba
We were passed by the Mario Cart tourists as we took this photo, but we can’t guarantee you’ll have the same luck.
As Odaiba is entirely reclaimed land in Tokyo Bay, it’s very flat and there’s nothing to protect us from the wind except the few buildings here — rather sparsely constructed compared to the situation we just left behind as we crossed Sumida River. At least we can’t claim it was both uphill and against the wind.
Another turn by the ferry terminal brings us to Tokyo Big Sight and an opportunity to dismount and fuel up on onigiri at a nice shaded bench by the side of a park. There’s a 7-11 right here to provide both the onigiri and fresh, bottled water (and there’s a water fountain as well for those less picky).
With the lunch break over, we continue past Tokyo Big Sight and turn again towards one of the many channels and passageways of the Sumida River. To the left we’re treated to a serene view of the polluted Toyosu Fish Market, and — in a bit of luck — a water skier!
The infamous, polluted Toyosu Fish Market Sumida River at Toyosu Water Skier on Sumida River
Back across to the mainland (via a much lower bridge) we have another long, straight dash (OK, a couple of jogs left to be honest) in traffic before reaching Ryogoku, where we pass the Edo Tokyo Museum before coming to Ryogoku Kokugikan, Tokyo’s sumo arena. And we’re in luck! It’s the summer basho and all the flags are flying. (And just our luck — the sumo walked by in bright pink, blue and yellow yukata the moment we put the camera away.) Ryogoku Kokugikan, Tokyo’s sumo arena
Now follows another long stretch in a lot of traffic to take us back west, aiming for the opposite side of the Imperial Palace this time. Along the way we pass the sporting goods stores in Kanda and then the famous used book district, and that’s the signal we’re just about to reach the last big attractions of the day. It’s a bit of a workout to go from Kundanshita (lower Kudan) up to Kudanue (upper Kudan), but we like to make it to the top before turning back and coasting down the sidewalk to Chidori-ga-fuchi and Budokan.
Chidori-ga-fuchi, the moat around Budokan Budokan, established for martial arts, made famous by rockers
Apparently it’s permissible to cycle through the famous Tayasumon gate into Budokan, but we prefer to dismount and enjoy the views of the cherry trees lining the path, as well as the reflections of the sunlight in the ripples of Chidori-ga-fuchi.
Cherry trees overlook Chidori-ga-fuchi
There’s one more attraction, if you will, just a bit further on and on the opposite side of the street: the justly infamous Yasukuni Shrine. We prefer to pass it by, pausing just long enough to shoot a photo through the gate for the purpose of this exposition.
Yasukuni Shrine: nothing “alt” about the “right” here
Finally, we’re nearing our starting point. After a couple of brief hills it’s another long, straight shot back towards Shinjuku Gyoen. That completes the loop, but we continue on just a bit farther past Shinjuku Station to see the Tokyo Metropolitan Government building towering over Central Park.
Tokyo Metropolitan Main Building No. 2
Our petit Tour de Tokyo is a fun ride overall despite being in traffic (heavy traffic at times). Within a few hours we see lots of famous Tokyo attractions, and at the same time get a new understanding of where things are in relation to one another which is hard to come by for the daily subway commuter. The roads are paved and mostly flat, and the plus side of dodging in traffic is fewer encounters with pedestrians compared to the Tamagawa cycling path. The course is also brief enough that there’s no worry about running out of daylight, regardless of the season.
You won’t be the only cyclist circumnavigating Tokyo
