Sarushima — Monkey Island

Sarushima gun battery site

猿島

Sarushima (Monkey Island), billed alternately as an uninhabited island, a “Natural Wonder Island” and “Adventure Island,” sits in Tokyo Bay just off the shore from Yokosuka in Kanagawa. It is home to fortifications from the Tokugawa and Meiji eras and is designated a National Historic Site. In addition to the fortifications, the island is also a popular destination for fishing and — during July and August — for beachgoers. It is uninhabited in that no one lives there, but there are restrooms, a gift shop featuring craft beer, and a rental shop for such things as beach umbrellas and barbecue grills.

Togo flagship Mikasa
Togo flagship Mikasa

Access to Sarushima is via a 10-minute ferry ride from Mikasa Park, itself a 15-minute walk from Yokosukachuo Station on the Keikyu Main Line. (Alternatively, you can book a tour bus, as we did, and avoid the walk.) You’ll know you’ve arrived when you see the Mikasa, the 15,380-ton flagship of Admiral Togo during the Russo-Japanese War.

The ferry runs once every hour from March through early November. You can find the schedule and fares here. It pays to arrive early as seats are limited on the ferry, and you could find yourself standing on the upper deck, exposed to the elements. As it happened, we hadn’t been waiting long before it started raining. As this also happened on our return trip, we dubbed the ship “Bringer of Rain.”

Sea Friend Zero
Sea Friend Zero, aka Bringer of Rain

Following a very brief and smooth trip, for which standing should pose no challenge to anyone but the most lubberly of land-lubbers, we disembarked on the island at the site of the popular beach (empty on a cool, somewhat rainy April day). Stairs lead up to a board deck, and guides in English are available here from a small hut to one side of the stairs. From there it’s a gradual climb up a path that curves between tree-studded ridges to the first of the historic fortifications. The path is paved, with boardwalks in places, and for the most part shouldn’t present a challenge to either youngsters or seniors.

Songoku, the monkey king
Songoku, the monkey king

Divine guidance from a white monkey

According to tradition, the priest Nichiren Shonin was traveling from Kamakura to Boso in May 1253 when his ship was beset by a storm. The crew had no way of knowing what direction the ship was heading. Suddenly, a white monkey appeared out of the storm to stand at the bow of the ship and guide it to safety on the island. Thus the name “Monkey Island” was bestowed.

Fortifications on Sarushima
Fortifications on Sarushima

The fortifications consist of a series of tunnels, barracks, armament stores and gun emplacements. Nothing remains of the latter now except for circles in the concrete foundation with rusty bolts sticking up. Meanwhile, the stone walls — some of which date from the Tokugawa Era — have been embellished in more recent times by graffitists. (Presumably this occurred before the site was granted national historic status.)

Graffiti inscriptions in the stone walls
Graffiti inscriptions in the stone walls

One of the attractions of the island is Nichiren cave, an ancient dwelling site on the island’s northernmost point where archeologists have unearthed Jomon era artifacts. The cave is more of archeological than scenic interest, though, and is hardly worth the 30m climb down (and then back up) a winding steel staircase scarcely wide enough for two people traveling in opposite directions. On the other hand, a climb up to the lookout post at the highest point of the island rewards the visitor with vistas in several directions.

View from the top of Sarushima
View from the top of Sarushima

With our bus tour group, we were given 45 minutes to explore the island before queuing up for the return ferry, and it wasn’t quite enough. We covered most, but not all, of the island and then barely had time to pick up a few bottles of Sarushima beer from the gift shop before it was time to line up on the pier. Then, as “Bringer of Rain” lived up to its moniker, there was a rush for seats and quite a crush on the ferry back to the mainland. Soon we found ourselves back at the Yokosuka Port Market, where we discovered we could have purchased the Sarushima beer — as well as a few other local varieties.

Sarushima「猿島」

Odawara Castle

Odawara Castle

小田原城

Odawara Castle is a reconstruction of the home to the Uesugi clan that played a pivotal role during Japan’s Sengoku (or “warring states”) period. The castle, first erected by the Doi clan during the Kamakura period, features the seventh tallest donjon in Japan. The concrete replica houses a history museum which focuses on the Uesugi clan, prominent during the Muromachi and Sengoku periods.

Gakubashi
Gakubashi, one of several entrances to Odawara Castle Park

Following the Battle of Odawara in 1590, in which Toyotomi Hideyoshi forced the surrender of the Late Hojo clan “through a combination of a three-month siege and bluff” (Wikipedia), the castle grounds have played home to a Shinto shrine, an imperial villa (destroyed by the Great Kanto Quake of 1923) and a park with art museum, local history museum, city library, amusement park and zoo. The donjon was rebuilt in 1960 on the occasion of the 20th anniversary of Odawara city’s incorporation.

Light show at Odawara Castle
Light show at Odawara Castle

Today, in addition to the historical museum, the castle grounds are home to a beautiful park, featuring varieties of Japanese cherry trees, and a children’s amusement park. The castle features a nightly light show, with a variety of themes playing from 5 to 9 p.m. (depending on the season).

Odawara Castle 「小田原城」

Shasui Falls

Shasui Falls

洒水の滝

Shasui Falls are a ribbon-like cataract with a total height of 90m on the Takizawa river near Yamakita in Kanagawa Prefecture. The falls, which lie within the grounds of the Saishouji Temple, are listed among the top 100 waterfalls in Japan and the top 50 scenic spots in Kanagawa.

The main drop of 69m (pictured above) is followed by a second drop of 16m and a final fall of 29m. The second drop is not visible to the public since a rock slide destroyed a bridge (behind the red bridge). Construction has been undertaken to prevent further rock slides, but the view of the second falls has not reopened.

Fountain at Shasui Falls

The temple maintains its connection to the falls, which are used in Buddhist purification rites where monks immerse themselves in the falls (often in freezing conditions). As Wikipedia relates, “During the early Kamakura period, the famed monk Mongaku is said to have spent one hundred days in meditation and austerities at this waterfall … ”

Perhaps in relation to the falls’ use in purification, the water of the falls is listed among the top 100 water selections in the nation. The name, which could be read as “sake water,” reflects the fragrant perfume of the stream.

Shasui Falls 「洒水の滝」

Saishouji

Jizo with pinwheels

最勝寺

Saishouji is a Buddhist temple in Yamakita, Kanagawa, whose grounds include the ribbon-like Shasui Falls. The temple is home to a taiko school, and hosts a drumming contest on the fourth Sunday of each July to celebrate the falls.

The temple is fronted with rows of hundreds of jizo which are decorated with pinwheels. (Unfortunately I haven’t been able to find any explanation for this colorful phenomenon.)

Jizo with pinwheels
Jizo with pinwheels

Entrance to Saishouji
Entrance to Saishouji

Saishouji 「最勝寺」

Houkisugi at Nakagawa

Houkisugi 「箒杉」

箒杉

Houkisugi, a 2,000-year-old cedar, towers 45 meters above a bluff overlooking Nakagawa Onsen in the Tanzawa mountains of Kanagawa Prefecture. The tree, born about the time of Julius Cesar’s reign, measures 18 meters around at the root and 12 meters at eye level.

Houkisugi 「箒杉」
Houkisugi 「箒杉」

Locals revere the tree for having halted the spread of a conflagration in 1904. The tree still bears the scars of the fire. It is also credited with stopping a landslide in 1972.

Houkisugi measures 12m around at eye level
Houkisugi measures 12m around at eye level

According to Wikipedia, the name “Houkisugi” may refer to a place name, or to the fact the tree resembles a broom (houki). Houkisugi was designated a National Monument in 1934.

Houkisugi 「箒杉」

Fugenzan Meigetsuin

Hydrangea at Meigetsuin

福源山明月院

Meigetsuin, “Bright Moon Hermitage,” is known as the Hydrangea Temple of Kamakura. The temple was originally founded in 1160 by Yamanouchi Tsunetoshi for the repose of the soul of his father, Yamanouchi Toshimichi, who died the previous year in the Battle of Heiji. It is the site of a yagura which legend holds to be Toshimichi’s resting place. Reliefs on the wall depict Shaka Nyorai, Taho Nyorai and the 16 Arhats, while the large gravestone, added 220 years later, is for Uesugi Norikata, who greatly expanded the temple under the direction of abbot Misshitsu Shugon.

Grotto Grave
Yagura of Meigetsuin

Nowadays, though, the temple is known for the view of the garden from the main hall through a circular window, and for ajisai — hydrangea.

Circular window of the main hall
Circular window, seen from the garden

The temple, just an hour’s train ride from Shinjuku, overflows with visitors in late May and early June as the hydrangea bloom. The line to enter the temple grounds soon backs up as far as the Kita Kamakura train station, turning the 10-minute walk into a wait of 40 minutes or longer.

Waiting in line
Waiting in line to view the hydrangea

For those with the patience (and sunscreen) to wait it out, the reward eventually comes.

HydrangeaHydrangea

Hydrangea
More hydrangea can be found in the neighborhood near the temple

Hydrangea at Meigetsu-in

Kenchoji

Jizo Bodhisattva in the Butsuden

建長寺

Kenchoji, nestled in the hills north of Kamakura, is Japan’s oldest Zen training monastery. It was founded by Chinese Zen master Rankei Doryu (Lan-hsi Tao-lung) and constructed by the order of Emperor Gofukakusa, with construction finishing in 1253 (the fifth year of the Kencho era).

Just inside the outer gate, Somon, stands the impressive main gate, Sanmon. This gate was built in 1754 by the chief priest Bansetsu. Tradition has it that in order to repay the kindness of the Kenchoji priests, a tanuki (Japanese raccoon dog) transformed itself into a monk to assist with the gate’s construction, and to this day the gate is also known as “Tanuki Mon”.

Sanmon
Sanmon, built with the help of a tanuki

Along the pathway leading from Sanmon to the main hall, Butsuden, is a Chinese juniper (Juniperus chinensis) planted more than 750 years ago by Rankei Doryu.

Chinese juniper
Chinese juniper, more than 750 years old

Chinese juniper
Chinese juniper planted by Rankei Doryu

Butsuden — Buddha Hall

Jizo Bosatsu
Jizo Bosatsu

Just past the great-grandfather juniper is the Butsuden, an Important Cultural Property. The building originally was a mausoleum belonging to the Shogunate, and was moved to its present location in 1647. The Butsuden houses a large wooden statue of Jizo Bosatsu (Ksitigarbha Bodhisattva) — a rarity for Zen temples — as well as other Buddhist statues.

Hatto — Dharma Hall

Continuing past the Butsuden, we come to the Hatto hall, the largest wooden Buddhist structure in eastern Japan. The ceiling of this hall for public ceremonies is adorned with a vast painting of a dragon, Unryu-zu, created in 2003 by Koizumi Junsaku to mark the 750th anniversary of Kenchoji.

Unryu-zu
Unryu-zu, by Koizumi Junsaku

Off to one side of the Hatto is the Karamon gate, another Important Cultural Property which, like the Hatto, was moved to its present location from Zozoji in Tokyo. As its name indicates, it displays the distinctive undulating bargeboard which became popular during the Heian period. Such gates were reserved for the use of the Shogun or for visits from the Emperor.

Karamon
Karamon

Karamon (detail)
Karamon (detail)

Kenchoji 「建長寺」

Kawasaki Daishi Heikenji Temple

Prayer For Peace

川崎大師平間寺

Kawasaki Daishi Heikenji Temple (Kawasaki Daishi Sama) is the headquarters of the Chizan sect of Shingon Buddhism and was founded in 1128. The temple was destroyed during the Pacific War — the current structures are reconstructions of the Heian Period buildings.

Kawasaki Daishi is a popular destination for hatsumode, the first temple visit of the new year. Nearly 3m people visit Kawasaki Daishi for hatsmode each year, making it the third most popular such destination in Japan. In addition, the temple is known as “Yakuyoke No Odaishi-sama” for its rituals devoted to yakuyoke, the warding off of evil.

Dai-Hondo
Dai-Honda, the main hall of Kawasaki Daishi

Kawasaki Daishi lies just a few hundred meters from the western abutment of the eponymous Kawasaki Daishi Bashi (bridge) over the Tamagawa River separating Tokyo from Kanagawa Prefecture, near Haneda at the river’s outlet into Tokyo Bay. Entrance to the temple area is through a vermilion gate which opens onto a marketplace of shops featuring traditional Japanese hard candy, soba and daruma.

Gateway to Kawasaki Daishi
Gateway to Kawasaki Daishi

The candy makers beat their knives against the cutting board in rhythm to attract customers.

The candy makers hawk their goods

Once past the marketplace, the entrance to the temple is via Dai-Sanmon Gate, housing the traditional dharmapala figures.

Dai-Sanmon Gate
Dai-Sanmon Gate

As the headquarters of a major Buddhist sect, Kawasaki Daishi often has displays of religious artifacts and artworks. One such artwork on permanent display is the statue “Prayer For Peace”, by Entsubakatsuzō Kōbōdaishi (installed 1984).

Prayer For Peace
Prayer For Peace

Kawasaki Daishi can become very crowded during festivals and hatsumode. On the other hand, it can be surprisingly quiet, even on a weekend when the food stalls are out with the hawkers practicing their English on passers-by. Although at first glance the temple does not appear large, in fact there is a number of halls and facilities, each with its own purpose.

Kawasaki Daishi Heikenji Temple