Author: Guy Jean

  • Tour de Tokyo

    Tour de Tokyo

    Bike Tokyo

    I’d been biking in Japan for years, mostly up and down the Tamagawa, when I stumbled across this brilliant short loop route that takes in a lot of famous Tokyo sites. On the downside, the ride is almost entirely in traffic. Riding on a Sunday minimized this in some places, but others (e.g., Ginza) will be busy no matter when you go.

    I pick up the route where it brushes the corner of Shinjuku Gyoen and continues down through Sendagaya to Gaien. Along the way it passes the construction for the new Olympic stadium.

    Meiji Jingu Gaien
    The Meiji Memorial Picture Gallery contains masterpieces which “show the brave figures and historic scenes of the brilliant era.”

    From Gaien we continue down through Midtown and Roppongi before coming to a fairly open view of Tokyo Tower in Azabu.

    Tokyo Tower
    Tokyo Tower

    From Tokyo Tower it’s a bit of a climb and then a long lateral across and through Azabu and Toronomon to Kasumigaseki, with all the government ministries.

    Ministry of Justice
    Ministry of Justice, at Sakuradamon

    The Ministry of Justice is at a corner adjacent to the Sakuradamon gate of the Imperial Palace. Rounding the corner, we come to Hibiya Park, which is an opportunity to fill up the water bottle before striking out in heavy traffic towards Ginza.

    Sakuradamon
    Sakuradamon, gate to the Imperial Palace

    Watering hole at Hibiya Park
    Watering hole at Hibiya Park — 30 seconds before I found a modern, clean fountain

    Braving the traffic, we continue southwest through Ginza and then past the Kabukiza. We had to cross to the other side to get a good photo as the theatre comes right up to the pavement.

    Kabukiza
    Kabukiza (Tokyo Kabuki Theater)

    Next in quick succession come the world-famous Tsukiji Fish Market (although there’s not much to see as it’s closed on Sundays) and the Sumida River.

    Welcome to Tsukiji
    Demons welcome you to the Tsukiji Fish Market

    Sumida River
    Sumida River adjacent to Tsukiji Fish Market

    It’s still a long, straight stretch to Odaiba, which we reach after a gentle but prolonged climb up Harumi Ohashi (bridge). The Rainbow bridge is visible off to the right from Harumi Ohashi, but don’t bother to stop and take photos here. By continuing right on Ariaki Avenue, on the first and only cycle path we’ll encounter along the route, we’ll come to a much better view.

    Rainbow Bridge
    Rainbow Bridge, connecting Tokyo with Odaiba

    We were passed by the Mario Cart tourists as we took this photo, but we can’t guarantee you’ll have the same luck.

    As Odaiba is entirely reclaimed land in Tokyo Bay, it’s very flat and there’s nothing to protect us from the wind except the few buildings here — rather sparsely constructed compared to the situation we just left behind as we crossed Sumida River. At least we can’t claim it was both uphill and against the wind.

    Another turn by the ferry terminal brings us to Tokyo Big Sight and an opportunity to dismount and fuel up on onigiri at a nice shaded bench by the side of a park. There’s a 7-11 right here to provide both the onigiri and fresh, bottled water (and there’s a water fountain as well for those less picky).

    With the lunch break over, we continue past Tokyo Big Sight and turn again towards one of the many channels and passageways of the Sumida River. To the left we’re treated to a serene view of the polluted Toyosu Fish Market, and — in a bit of luck — a water skier!

    Toyosu Fish Market
    The infamous, polluted Toyosu Fish Market

    Sumida River at Toyosu
    Sumida River at Toyosu

    Water Skier on Sumida River
    Water Skier on Sumida River

    Back across to the mainland (via a much lower bridge) we have another long, straight dash (OK, a couple of jogs left to be honest) in traffic before reaching Ryogoku, where we pass the Edo Tokyo Museum before coming to Ryogoku Kokugikan, Tokyo’s sumo arena. And we’re in luck! It’s the summer basho and all the flags are flying. (And just our luck — the sumo walked by in bright pink, blue and yellow yukata the moment we put the camera away.)

    Ryogoku Kokugikan
    Ryogoku Kokugikan, Tokyo’s sumo arena

    Now follows another long stretch in a lot of traffic to take us back west, aiming for the opposite side of the Imperial Palace this time. Along the way we pass the sporting goods stores in Kanda and then the famous used book district, and that’s the signal we’re just about to reach the last big attractions of the day. It’s a bit of a workout to go from Kundanshita (lower Kudan) up to Kudanue (upper Kudan), but we like to make it to the top before turning back and coasting down the sidewalk to Chidori-ga-fuchi and Budokan.

    Chidori-ga-fuchi
    Chidori-ga-fuchi, the moat around Budokan

    Budokan
    Budokan, established for martial arts, made famous by rockers

    Apparently it’s permissible to cycle through the famous Tayasumon gate into Budokan, but we prefer to dismount and enjoy the views of the cherry trees lining the path, as well as the reflections of the sunlight in the ripples of Chidori-ga-fuchi.

    Cherry trees overlook Chidori-ga-fuchi
    Cherry trees overlook Chidori-ga-fuchi

    There’s one more attraction, if you will, just a bit further on and on the opposite side of the street: the justly infamous Yasukuni Shrine. We prefer to pass it by, pausing just long enough to shoot a photo through the gate for the purpose of this exposition.

    Yasukuni Shrine
    Yasukuni Shrine: nothing “alt” about the “right” here

    Finally, we’re nearing our starting point. After a couple of brief hills it’s another long, straight shot back towards Shinjuku Gyoen. That completes the loop, but we continue on just a bit farther past Shinjuku Station to see the Tokyo Metropolitan Government building towering over Central Park.

    Tokyo Metropolitan Main Building No. 2
    Tokyo Metropolitan Main Building No. 2

    Our petit Tour de Tokyo is a fun ride overall despite being in traffic (heavy traffic at times). Within a few hours we see lots of famous Tokyo attractions, and at the same time get a new understanding of where things are in relation to one another which is hard to come by for the daily subway commuter. The roads are paved and mostly flat, and the plus side of dodging in traffic is fewer encounters with pedestrians compared to the Tamagawa cycling path. The course is also brief enough that there’s no worry about running out of daylight, regardless of the season.

    Cyclists in Azabu
    You won’t be the only cyclist circumnavigating Tokyo

    Tour de Tokyo

    I found this route via Tour de Nippon.

  • Nakaminato Fish Market

    Nakaminato Fish Market

    那珂湊おさかな市場

    The Nakaminato Fish Market, just a stone’s throw from the famous Oarai Isosaki Shrine on the edge of a natural harbor, offers a fantastic variety of the freshest seafood possible. Make your choice early for great seafood in one of the restaurants arrayed in the abbreviated mall or even fresher offerings from the food stalls lined up near the waterfront.

    Fresh oysters at Nakaminato
    Fresh oysters the size of two hands clasped together

    The crowds form up early for both the restaurants and the food stalls, mingling with the hawkers, the purchasers and the forklifts carrying loads of ice to preserve the catch.

    Do yourself a favor: pass up the comforts of seating dining and savour the delicacies of the food stalls (屋台): fresh oysters the size of both your hands clasped together, crabs stewed in their shells and flatfish that are so fresh they’re still trying to leap out of the bucket. You can check the calendar to see what’s fresh at any given time. (Japanese only.)

    Access

    A 10-minute walk from Nakaminato Station on the Hitachinaka Kaihin Minato Line.

    Nakaminato Fish Market

  • Ashikaga Flower Park

    Ashikaga Flower Park

    あしかがフラワーパーク

    Ashikaga Flower Park is a flower theme park established in 1997 in Ashikaga, Tochigi. The park is renowned for its hundreds of wisteria, with the most famous being the 150-year-old “Hazama no Fuji (迫間のフジ),” which spreads over more than 1,000 square meters. Other wisteria are formed into tunnels up to 80 meters long which guests can pass through, a half dome resembling an orchestra shell, and walls which serve as backdrops for floral tableaux.

    Wisteria illumination

    Wisteria-covered bridge
    Wisteria-covered bridge

    The highlight of the year comes from mid-April through May with the blooming of the wisteria. The park remains open until 9 p.m. during the season and illuminates the wisteria in the evening to create a colorful fantasy in the dusk. The park can be very crowded at this season, particularly during the Golden Week holidays, and visitors should expect some waiting in line for parking spaces and admission.

    Year-round events

    To provide a beautiful and interesting experience throughout the year, Ashikaga Flower Park marks “Eight Floral Seasons” such as “Spring Flower Festival” and “Water Nymphs (Water Lilies)”. The basic details of the seasons are available at the park’s English page, but the full details are given in Japanese only.

    Other types of flowers at the park include Christmas rose, tulips, crocus, azaleas, hydrangea, sage and pansies.

    Orange Lily
    Orange Lily

    Admission and access

    The park is open from 9 a.m. to 6 p.m., with longer hours for some events such as the wisteria illumination. The admission price varies with the season and the condition of the flowers. At the peak it is ¥1,700 for adults and ¥800 for children. Check the website for details. Ashikaga Flower Park is about a 13-minute walk from the Tomita station (100 minutes from Tokyo via the Keihin Tohoku and JR Ryomo lines). Additional access information is available on the park’s website.

    Wisteria at Ashikaga Flower Park

  • We count down from 108

    A friend asked how Japanese New Year’s traditions differ from those of the US, so Nana assigned me the task of explaining it.

    New Year's Decoration
    New Year’s Decoration

    The New Year’s celebration here is more like Christmas, Thanksgiving and spring cleaning rolled into one. Some people spend days cleaning, and set out new socks and underwear for the new year. People used to prepare food for a week so they didn’t have to cook during the holidays, but these days most people buy the food or have it delivered. Nana told me I needed a haircut.

    Mochi and Mikan
    Mochi rice cake and mikan orange

    Families gather together and children receive gifts of money. We put decorations like the one above on the door, on cars, and in places where water enters the home. The whole country “downs tools” for four days or so. (Actually there’s a lot to do these days, including early morning bargain sales on the 1st, but when I first arrived here only McDonalds and some convenience stores were open. Even the ATMs were turned off.) People eat special foods known as osechi (but neither Nana nor I care for it, so we have roast beef and other goodies), as well as soba (buckwheat noodles) and mochi (rice cakes) for luck. On the morning of the 1st, many people sit at home and watch TV for the sun rising over Mt. Fuji.

    Ofuda
    Ofuda
    Some people gather at temples on New Year’s Eve to be one of 108 people to ring in the New Year on the temple bell. The 108 rings are to chase away the evil spirits of the year that is ending. And then millions visit the temples in the first few days of the New Year to pray for luck, to purchase ofuda for the home to ward off evil spirits, and to return the previous year’s totems to be burned in the temple’s flame.

    New Year’s nengajo are a very important part of the holiday. The post office hires extra workers to deliver all the cards on the 1st. If you fall behind and your card isn’t delivered until the 2nd, then then recipient knows you didn’t think of them until you received their card. You can buy cards at the post office with the postage included, and a lottery number printed on one side, with the backs blank so you can print your own picture or greeting. (But Nana doesn’t do the postcards, so we have it easy … )

    On New Year’s Eve, lots of families watch a long musical show called Kohaku which features the hits of the year and old favorites. Overall, it’s one of the most boring programs ever conceived for television ..

    Lumber yards put up large panels of wood painted with the animal representing the New Year (rooster, this year).

  • No, the *other* great musical from the ’60s

    I don’t remember how it got started, but during dinner tonight Nana suddenly blurted out that she didn’t like musicals, except for that really great one from the ’60s.

    Me:
    Hair
    Nana:
    No
    Me:
    Jesus Christ Superstar
    Nana:
    No!

    After a few tries, she hit on it.

    Nana:
    Cabaret!
    Me:
    Yeah, that’s a good ‘un.

    (Yes, I know. I know!)

    Then she tried to remember the other musical she liked.

    Nana:
    You know, the other great musical from the ’60s!
    Me:
    Hmm … West Side Story?
    Nana (scornfully):
    No!

    Wow. Sixties. OK, challenge accepted.

    Me:
    Cats? (I know this is not from the ’60s, OK?)
    Nana:
    No! I hate Cats!
    Me:
    They’re actually not bad, fricasseed with a little soy sauce … Sixties? Got it! Fiddler on the Roof!
    Nana:
    Nooooo!
    Me (sings):
    A fiddler on the roof/A most unlikely sight/He fiddles ev’ry day/He fiddles ev’ry night …
    Nana:
    No!
    Me:
    South Pacific. Mikado.

    Yes, at this point I’m just fuckin’ with her. … Meanwhile, she’s checking the closet for CDs of the soundtrack.

    Me:
    That one about the dancers. One/Singular sensation/la da di da da di da …
    Nana:
    Huh-uh
    Me:
    A Chorus Line
    Nana:
    No, I said!
    Me
    (gives up) …
    Nana:
    I got it! Carmen!
    Me (scornfully):
    That’s opera, not a musical.
    Nana:
    A musical!
    Me:
    Read my lips: オ。ペ。ラ。

    OK, I’m not Mr. Broadway. Could be … what do I know? She goes out to the balcony to indulge her tobacco fetish.

    Nana (opening the sliding glass door):
    You’re right. Opera.
    Me:
    Where did you see it? The Met?
    Nana:
    Yeah, it was the Met.
    Me:

    What I said: Opera.

    Nana:
    Because I got the tickets from Norman.
    Me:
    That’s right. He was with the Met.
    Nana:
    Yeah. Opera. He used to work for the Met.
    Me:
    Heard from him lately?
    Nana:
    Only pictures from our friends on facebook.
    Me:
    Carmen. The other great musical from the ’60s.
  • Well, that’s one win

    A client wants to see if we can make his site more mobile-friendly (and hence improve his Google page score) without actually changing the design (a very attractive job by Greg Buckingham). I’ve built the site on a well established mobile-friendly framework, so the question becomes one of whether I’ve done something to nullify that, or if the site content (much of which predates the mobile web) is messing things up.

    I started looking into it and pretty quickly recalled that I’d set it to be a fixed rather than a responsive layout. So that’s an obvious place to start.

    Rather than mess with a live client site, my next step was to set up a test site and start modifying it to match the appearance of the current site without affecting the mobile-friendliness. There’s a newer version of the Zen framework, so I went with that. And in raw form, as promised, it has a perfect mobile score.

    Now to make some changes. OK, the new framework does away with direct editing of the CSS in favor of SASS, which is a good move, really. So I have to install some tools to work with that. The host where I have my test site doesn’t give me the ability to install these tools, so I fired up my virtual linux box. Re-created the test site (after doing a fairly big upgrade of the OS — it’s been a couple of months since I’d used it). And then installed the tools. For good measure, copied in the site logo for a start. And …

    Nothing. Nada. Zip.

    Checked the selinux settings. Cleared up all the notices. Again.

    Zero.

    Went into the server logs. SEGMENTATION FAULT.

    What in the nine billion names of God? Installing the developer tools hoses the OS?

    This sounds like a good opportunity to work on something else for a while. Like this blog. I’ve had an issue since I set it up that while the site was at www.guyjeansjapan.com, the admin pages were at guyjeansjapan.com (sans ‘www’). This has caused various issues. For example, previewing didn’t work. The site stats wouldn’t load. And every so often when I was trying to accomplish something, I’d get logged out and the browser wouldn’t remember my credentials to log me in again.

    There’s a place in the control panel for these settings, but they were disabled. So I searched around until I found a config file hack that did the trick. Back in business now. Everything works as expected.

    While I was at it I found a like/dislike button plug-in. This was a request from Nana. Also some sharing settings that I’m not sure how much use I’ll make of, since I keep facebook in a different browser and have it blocked from this one.

    Pity the client’s not paying me to sort out my own blog. (On the other hand, the mobile friendly work is all speculation at this point, as I haven’t yet given him an estimate for the job.)

  • In Japan, Woody Allen would need new source material

    Not only is there no God, but try finding a plumber on Sunday.Woody Allen

    We had the kitchen faucet replaced last year. If I recall correctly, it was on a Sunday.

    Anyway, we had called the plumber because the old faucet was leaking, and we hoped he could just replace a bushing or something. But he said the faucet was too worn, and he sold us a new one. He had everything he needed on the spot, and even took a credit card. I thought that was pretty impressive service.

    Lately, though, Nana noticed that the faucet was leaking. Thursday was a holiday, so she spent some time digging through the papers to come up with the warranty on the faucet — two years, so we were still covered. She called the plumber.

    And he came immediately.

    On a holiday.

    He had a look at the faucet and decided that it was the manufacturer’s responsibility. So Nana called the manufacturer (again, on a holiday), and scheduled one of their people to come today.

    Saturday.

    She asked him to arrive before noon as she was going somewhere in the afternoon. (This was a deception. She wanted to watch her drama at 1.)

    (Nana says the drama starts at 1:05.)

    The plumber from the manufacturer arrived a few minutes before noon, in the pouring rain. He got to work right away. It took some time but he found the culprit: an O-ring that he replaced and then tested to make sure it was sealing properly. He explained to Nana in some detail how the O-ring had failed.

    Total bill for two plumbers to visit, one on a national holiday and one on a Saturday: Zip. Nada. Rien. サービス. All under warranty.

    Of course, this kind of service doesn’t come cheap. The initial replacement last year was kind of expensive, and it was more for the labor than the faucet.

    Newly repaired faucet
    Newly repaired faucet
  • Also true of many sports figures

    I was at dinner last night at a Shinjuku izakaya with Nana and a couple of older women, one of whom used to run a yakitori restaurant in the neighborhood.

    At the next table were a couple of younger women. And when Nana got up to use the restroom, one of the older women at my table turned to these two and started a conversation.

    I don’t remember what was said before the ball was handed to me, but the following was totally a logical progression from that (I swear):

    Me:
    So how long have you been in Japan?

    (This is one of my jokes as it’s a standard question from Japanese meeting a foreigner.)

    Young Lady No. 1:
    Well …
    Me:
    I’ll bet I’ve been here longer.
    Young Lady No. 1:
    Really?
    Me:
    I’ve been here since 1989.
    Young Lady No. 1:
    You’re right! That’s longer than me!
    Young Lady No. 2:
    Me too!